Our trip to Quitaraju wasn't quite as successful as previous ones - As the 5th expedition our bodies were getting tired and I had a passing fever which stopped me getting to the Alpamayo col camp. Two of my friends did, but even they didn't make it to the summit. When we got back from that trip we decided it would be our last trip into the mountains - there is a limit to how long and how far you can push your body and going beyond it wouldn't be sensible. So the two of us that are left have been using up our last few days at the beach and doing a bit of surfing. 5 months is a long time to be away, and I am ready to come home now. I know that I'm not the type to catch the wanderlust and become a perennial traveller. I'm looking forward to having roots and work to focus my energies on.
People keep saying to me that I've packed a lot into my gap year, and looking back, I suppose I have - but none of it felt rushed. And in the main, I wouldn't change the things I've done or the way I've done them. The highlights for me have been learning Spanish and climbing the mountains. Others have used the phrase "trip of a lifetime" - but I don't like this phrase because for me the implication is that I will never do anything as exciting again. It's all about your horizons - and each time you do something new they are expanded a little bit further.
Looking back, it is hard to overestimate how much a trip like this can mature you and give you confidence. Before I came, I was nervous about travelling solo in an unknown culture across a language barrier. But now these things are familiar and not daunting. There is plenty more of South America to see - now that I have some Spanish I am keen to visit Bolivia, Argentina, Chile, Columbia, Mexico... But although I still have many places I want to explore, travelling will be less daunting, and I don't need to prove anything to myself. Travelling now holds less firsts, though of course there are many challenges in other parts of life which I feel ready to take on. I also know myself better and have greater discernment in deciding the things I want to do.
So this will be my last entry from South America. Whether my new life as a PhD student is interesting enough to keep me blogging is an open question.
Wednesday 29 August 2007
Thursday 16 August 2007
Earthquake
Yesterday evening an Earthquke of magnitude 8.0 on the Richter Scale hit Peru, with the epicenter near Pisco. 70% of Pisco is in ruins according to BBC news. The current death toll is at 350 and likely to rise. I was in Pisco and Ica myself just a few weeks ago. Lima felt the earthquake very strongly and people were scared but damage and casualties there could have been a lot worse.
Here in Huaraz we felt it for about 30 seconds but it was fairly mild and there was no damage or casualties here. I was sitting playing chess in the very nice Cafe Andino and we felt the building move. At first I asked "Is that the wind?" but quikcly realised it couldn't be. We then started headed for the "Zona segura en caso de sismos" which every well built building should have marked - but by the time we got there it had passed. After a few minutes everyone went back to their coffees. We didn't actually realise until today how serious it was when we heard the news.
So myself and my friends are all fine. Whether we will be affected by ongoing problems remains to be seen. However, any inconvience to us is nothing compared to the devastation of the lives of many thousands south of Lima.
FC
Here in Huaraz we felt it for about 30 seconds but it was fairly mild and there was no damage or casualties here. I was sitting playing chess in the very nice Cafe Andino and we felt the building move. At first I asked "Is that the wind?" but quikcly realised it couldn't be. We then started headed for the "Zona segura en caso de sismos" which every well built building should have marked - but by the time we got there it had passed. After a few minutes everyone went back to their coffees. We didn't actually realise until today how serious it was when we heard the news.
So myself and my friends are all fine. Whether we will be affected by ongoing problems remains to be seen. However, any inconvience to us is nothing compared to the devastation of the lives of many thousands south of Lima.
FC
Wednesday 15 August 2007
Vallunaraju, 5686m
So we made it up another 5000er, Vallunaraju. There were some spectacular views from the summit - we spent an hour there to enjoy them .
(More) Pics from the last few trips
One of our number is heading home on Friday, but I should have time for two more trips. Certainly next week we are heading out on a long trip to climb one more 6000er - with a 2 day walk in its a long way - but we will get great views across to Alpamayo - "The most beautiful mountain in the world".
After this the question is whether we will have the motivation and mental energy for another trip - each trip is an expedition in itself and quite draining. But when we look back on our time here I am sure we will be happier if we did climb one last mountain in our last week, so we should try to find the energy.
Sunday 12 August 2007
Tocllaraju, 6032m
We made it up Tocllaraju without any major problems. We had a high camp on the glacier at 5100m with spectacular views. We set of 2.30am in the morning, so most of the hard work was done in the dark and we were on the summit by 10am. Of the 5 groups on the mountian that day, it was gratifying to be first on the top - especially as a queue formed for a tricky step and steep bit near the top - as we abseiled down others were waiting to go up. Photos to come.
Off today for another 5000er - a new friend has arrived and needs to acclimitise before we atempt another 6000er.
Off today for another 5000er - a new friend has arrived and needs to acclimitise before we atempt another 6000er.
Saturday 4 August 2007
Into the Cordillera Blanca
I arrived in Huaraz with three climbing friends three weeks ago. Huaraz sits at the edge of the Cordillera Blanca (white mountain range), the highest tropical mountain range in the world - only the Himalayas are bigger. With some Alpine experience, we have signed a disclaimer and are climbing without guides, being careful to progress gradually.
Having all just arrived from the UK, my friends needed some days to acclimatise before attempting to climb and big mountains. We also had to wait for 3 bags to arrive which the airlines had lost, one of which ended up getting sent all round Peru. Unfortunately, two of them got sick just as we preparing to head out our our first expedition; their stomachs not yet accustomed to Peruvian food.
So two of us headed out for our first peak, Ishinca. We enjoyed the novelty of having donkeys carry our heavy packs into our base camp. Despite being an "easy" acclimatisation peak at "only" 5530m, we both found ourselves stopping for breath every 20 steps as we neared the top. Everything is slow and difficult here, even in comparison to the Alps. There can be no rushing of the acclimatisation process.
Still, the views were incredible, and once again reminded me of one of the reasons we climb - if you think the views from the valley are good, they are nothing compared to when you get up high. In the valley you can only ever see the two or three mountains closest to you, but up high you get a vista of the entire range.
By the time we got back from the first trip, our friends were recovered and ready to climb. We headed out for a week to climb Yanapaccha and Pisco . For Yanapaccha, we first headed to a high camp next to the glacier. But our arrerio (donkey driver) had mislead us about far the donkeys could take our gear. So the next day we struggled to ascend 400m to the camp with full camping packs.
As we finally neared our destination, we saw a group coming up behind. Two guys were gaining on us whilst carrying enormous packs. We soon realised they were Peruvian porters. One overtook us, just before we arrived at the campsite and nabbed all the best camping spots. An hour or so later, their clients arrived - a guided group doing a 6 day mountai
neering course. In comparison to us they were living in luxury, with mess tents, gas cookers and heaters and a cook producing gourmet dishes. Despite the competition for tent spots, we made friends with the guide and he complemented us on our choice of campsite and route away from the hoards.
Yanapaccha was more technically difficult than Ishinca and the cold wind didn't make it any easier. Having made it to the summit our views were spoilt by seemingly the only hour of cloud of the day. But there were plenty of views on the descent, and we returned to our camp pleased to have completed our first tricky route at altitude.
Pisco was a different proposition - higher at 5752m, but one of the easiest and most popular peaks. It has a refuge at the bottom, where we enjoyed eating a proper meal. We shared the amazing summit views with lots of Italians and other assorted Europeans.
Tomorrow we head out to climb our first 6000er, Tocallraju. After Pisco, we should be acclimatised, but the route will be the hardest yet. The MPS website has a more detailed diary of our activities.
Having all just arrived from the UK, my friends needed some days to acclimatise before attempting to climb and big mountains. We also had to wait for 3 bags to arrive which the airlines had lost, one of which ended up getting sent all round Peru. Unfortunately, two of them got sick just as we preparing to head out our our first expedition; their stomachs not yet accustomed to Peruvian food.
So two of us headed out for our first peak, Ishinca. We enjoyed the novelty of having donkeys carry our heavy packs into our base camp. Despite being an "easy" acclimatisation peak at "only" 5530m, we both found ourselves stopping for breath every 20 steps as we neared the top. Everything is slow and difficult here, even in comparison to the Alps. There can be no rushing of the acclimatisation process.
Still, the views were incredible, and once again reminded me of one of the reasons we climb - if you think the views from the valley are good, they are nothing compared to when you get up high. In the valley you can only ever see the two or three mountains closest to you, but up high you get a vista of the entire range.
By the time we got back from the first trip, our friends were recovered and ready to climb. We headed out for a week to climb Yanapaccha and Pisco . For Yanapaccha, we first headed to a high camp next to the glacier. But our arrerio (donkey driver) had mislead us about far the donkeys could take our gear. So the next day we struggled to ascend 400m to the camp with full camping packs.
As we finally neared our destination, we saw a group coming up behind. Two guys were gaining on us whilst carrying enormous packs. We soon realised they were Peruvian porters. One overtook us, just before we arrived at the campsite and nabbed all the best camping spots. An hour or so later, their clients arrived - a guided group doing a 6 day mountai
neering course. In comparison to us they were living in luxury, with mess tents, gas cookers and heaters and a cook producing gourmet dishes. Despite the competition for tent spots, we made friends with the guide and he complemented us on our choice of campsite and route away from the hoards.Yanapaccha was more technically difficult than Ishinca and the cold wind didn't make it any easier. Having made it to the summit our views were spoilt by seemingly the only hour of cloud of the day. But there were plenty of views on the descent, and we returned to our camp pleased to have completed our first tricky route at altitude.
Pisco was a different proposition - higher at 5752m, but one of the easiest and most popular peaks. It has a refuge at the bottom, where we enjoyed eating a proper meal. We shared the amazing summit views with lots of Italians and other assorted Europeans.
Tomorrow we head out to climb our first 6000er, Tocallraju. After Pisco, we should be acclimatised, but the route will be the hardest yet. The MPS website has a more detailed diary of our activities.
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