Sierra a Costa, Ecuador a Perú

So, I have arrived safely in Peru. Tomorrow I fly to Lima. My route has taken me through:

Riobama - For a bike ride down volcan Chimboarzo (the highest in Ecuador, pic) and through indigenous valleys. Also for the start of the incredible 'Nariz del Diablo' - the most difficult railway in the world, descending down a vertical gorge (pic).
Cuenca - Pretty colonial city, Ecuador's third largest - but sedate and relaxed in comparison to Quito or even Riobama.
Machala - On Ecuador's southern coast. As you descend from the sierra to Machala, the change of climate hits you with the heat you expect of the equator. The sierra is temperate by comparison.
Tumbes - Dusty Peruvian border town with its share of con men and rip offs.
Mancora - Lovely Peruvian beach town full of surfers. I tried to surf a little but didn't have the same determination or energy to succeed as I has last time I tried surfing.

It's true what people say - travelling solo is actually very sociable -in a whole week I have only eaten alone twice. And I have made many friends along the way.

On the train ride from Riobama through some beautiful valleys, I had appreciated the juxtaposition of an indigenous girl chatting on her mobile phone with flashing lights. There are very few places untouched by the modern world - and I think the mobile phone may be the most ubiquitous of modern technology because the infrastructure needed to set up a network is realtively little.

There is a line between vigilance and paranoia - and at certain times during this journey I may have been on the wrong side of it. One example was at the bus station in Cuenca when I dropped a coin - I wouldn't accept it back from the nice girl trying to give it back to me. I was being hyper-vigilant given that my friend had had her bag stolen in the same place just a week ago. But when vigilance means that you trust no-one, it has overstepped the mark.

The border crossing was a particular source of anxiety. There were two possible routes to choose from, and having heard a number of horror stories about the coastal one, I was inclined to take the apparently easier inland one. But doing this, I would have missed Mancora. But in the dorm of my hostel in Cuenca, I chanced upon two other travellers who wanted to do the coastal crossing, and we joined forces.

The difficulty with this border is that the immigration offices for Peru and Ecuador are 5km apart, each inconveniently a couple of km from the border itself - and you have to get your passport stamped at both. Many con men and dodgy money changers operate in the area between these offices.

The key to a hassle free crossing was to get a direct bus over the border which waited for us at both immigration offices. Our 2 hour cross-border bus ride only cost $2, and there were only 4 passengers who crossed the border - so I found it hard to believe it was worth their while to wait for us, but they did. The bus tout was very helpful, coming into the immigration offices with us to make sure there were no problems. Why another company hasn't setup more expensive buses for tourists on this route that make everything easy, I don't know. I would have happily paid $10 to know everything would be smooth.


In my last post I mentioned "We shall meet twice in life". This was exemplified when a friendly Peruvian surf instructor whom I had met in Quito two weeks ago turned out to be staying in the room next to me in the Mancora hostel. My friends and his friends all passed an evening together and we agreed to conduct the whole evening in Spanish, despite the fact that he speaks good English. Spanish is easier after a drink or two, but harder after three or four! And the next day I got some free surf tuition.

Another gratifying outing for my Spanish was when I ended up translating at my hostel for an Australian couple.

The next challenge is to find a way to make myself useful as a helper at a school in Lima. Finding the right niche in which to help may require a little provacticity.

Chao amigos,

FC